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Organic/Bio Lower ABV Calling a Beaujolais Nouveau “serious” seems either silly or just plain wrong. And “serious” doesn’t really describe the experience of drinking this nearly unspeakably delicious Gamay. But it’s worth saying that this is the opposite of early-picked, hot-and-fast-fermented, banged into bottle to hit the US market before Thanksgving Nouveaux.
The wine starts out as the fermenters full of what will become Jean Paul Brun’s famed Beaujolais VV l'Ancien. When the fermentation is done, most of the juice is racked off the gross lees into concrete tanks to rest for 9-10 months. And a small portion is diverted into these bottles to be released as Nouveaux.
Margaret Perry, the sales person who first convinced me to even try this wine, also gave my favorite note for it. For last year’s release, but even more true here: “40-60 year old vines (when do you see that in Nouveau?!); organically grown, hand harvested, rigorously sorted, fermented without carbonic (he calls it the "Burgundian style"). It reminds me of eating Santa Rosa Plums off our tree when I was a kid -- and spilling juice everywhere but still reaching for a second one. Warm, sun-ripened fruit (black cherry, tart red plum, black raspberry), nice lift from the acidity, elegant tannins, it's lush and refreshing all at once." Crazy, gulpably, seriously, good juice.
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