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Organic/Bio What kind of wine does a top NYC sommelier create from old vines and one of the Southern Rhone’s most exciting hillside terroirs? If you’re Victor Taylor, former sommelier at The Quilted Giraffe and director at Lespinasse and The Carlyle, a pretty darn delicious one! Taylor purchased an old stone house and old vines running up the Vinsobres hills in 2011. He’s converted them to organic farming, works the vines and picks by hand, keeps yields low, flows the wine through the winery by gravity, and uses minimal sulfur. All that work gives a wine that marries the depth, richness, flesh and fruit we love from the Southern Rhone to a food-friendly, invigorating, acidity that keeps you coming back for more.
Around half Grenache provides bold, super-ripe, raspberry fruit and a sense of ample flesh. Dashes of Cinsault and Mourvedre give spice, snap, and complexity. And one-third Syrah adds the roasted meat, warm stone, and touch of milk chocolate character Vinsobres is known for. Most of the cuvee ages in concrete to preserve fruit but around one-quarter sees large oak for extra smoothness and spice. It’s a big wine because that’s what the intense sunshine and strong Mistrial wines deliver. But the savory Syrah notes (smoked meat, warm stones) and freshening acids make for a terrific contrast to the dark raspberry and baked strawberry fruit. Really yummy stuff and a welcome break in the super-duper ripeness and flesh so common in the Southern Rhone these days!
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